To the Builder

Congratulations! You have purchased TUFF-N-DRI® Waterproofing System installed by a trained TUFF-N-DRI® Selected Waterproofing Contractor. You are, no doubt, aware of the benefits.

  • Reduces call backs to you -that translates into reduced costs.
  • Waterproofing system vs. a dampproofing system - a sellable difference to your buyer.
  • A dependable basement wall that allows you to design the basement as part of your finished living space for affordability and value, regardless of the price range of your home.
  • If the basement is not finished by you, then it can be sold as dependable, future expandable space to your home buyer.
  • 10-year limited warranty to your home buyer.*
  • Potential energy savings to your home buyer.**

However, you may not be aware that the performance of the finest waterproofing system available to the residential home builder can be defeated. Reasonable care and attention to good construction practices will help ensure the performance of the waterproofing system. Below is a brief description of some of these items.

Preparation

Confer with your TUFF-N-DRI® Contractor on specific preparation. However, here is a list of general items to consider:

  • Walls must be accessible.
  • Dig out cave-ins.
  • Wall surface must be in good condition.
  • Honeycomb, cold joints, mortar voids must be filled flush with a non-shrinking grout.
  • Fins or weeping joints must be removed till flush.
  • Dry footer and wall: rainy weather can delay application. Be patient.
  • Tie rods snapped both inside and out-side.
  • Brick ledge should be a solid surface. Open block must not be used to form abrick ledge.
  • Brick ledge should be waterproofed.
  • Grade line is important. If grade line is above the waterproofing, you have unprotected wall area.
  • Wall must be structurally sound.(follow building codes).
  • If block cores are to be poured solid, do so before installation of waterproofing.
  • Avoid tying linters into foundation wall unless the area is waterproofed by your Selected Contractor prior to installation.
  • Consider using the system up to the sill plate. This increases the insulated area and reduces grade line issues. Cover the insulation board with abuse protective covering. Your Contractor or Koch may suggest alternative coverings.
  • Penetrations should be made before waterproofing. Use PVC sleeve throug h the wall during construction. Seal PVC sleeve pipe with non-shrinking grout and then seal grout with a good quality asphalt mastic.

During Construction Phase

Items to consider:

  • Advise other trades not to damage waterproofing. Replace boards knocked off.
  • If damaged, don't ignore it. Call your Selected Contractor for advice.
  • Backfill operator should respect the grade line you established with the Selected Contractor.
  • If penetration is made after waterproofing consult your Selected Contractor for treatment.

Drainage

For the TUFF-N-DRI® System warranty* to be effective, a positive drainage system must be installed and the WARM-N-DRI Board must connect through gravel or direct channels to the drainage system. Positive drainage means water is carried to daylight or to a sump basket for proper discharge.

The drainage system must meet code requirements for your area. The drainage system required for the TUFF-N-DRI® System can be either interior or exterior or both. Many experts in this design area prefer exterior drainage for water and interior for venting of the soil should that be necessary. If exterior drainage is used, gravel must extend from the tile up to and make at least 1 0" of contact with the WARM-N-DRI Board. For any exterior drainage system the top of the outside drain tile should be positioned so it is below the bottom surface of the inside slab.

If interior drainage is used, then at periodic points WARM-N-DRI Board must be allowed to drain to the interior drainage system. A good way to accomplish this is to periodically place channels through either the footing or the wall. At these points, gravel should cover the channel opening and extend up to and make contact with WARM-N-DRI Board. These channels should be placed through the footer in one of the following ways:

  1. 4" tile about every 20 feet.
  2. 2" PVC pipe about every 8 feet.
  3. 1" PVC pipe about every 6 feet.

An alternative is to use weep holes through the wall. In this case, ensure the slab is raised off the footer and the weep holes connect to the interior drain tile. It is an excellent practice to connect the gravel beneath the floor slab to your sump pit. Some experts recommend connecting the gravel beneath the slab to the exterior tile if a daylight discharge is used.

The addition of porches, patios, and crawl spaces after the waterproofing is installed requires some care. Do not allow porches and stoops to crush and block the drainage system. Do not allow linters or patios to be installed by penetrating the waterproofing. Patios, porches, stoops, and driveways should slope away from the foundation. If not, water can pool and enter in unprotected areas above the waterproofing.

Humidity / Condensation

A poured wall and floor slab combined may have roughly 400 gallons of water at the time of placement. In block construction, the floor slab may have roughly 100 gallons of water. Most of this water must escape into the interior air. If the basement is closed up before the water escapes, high humidity conditions can occur. Avoid this by circulating air in the basement and using a dehumidifier for 3 or 4 weeks after final construction.

4114 Old William Penn Highway, Monroeville, PA 15146 - (412) 374-1330
Copyright © 2006 T-n-D of Pittsburgh, Inc.

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